Graphic Equalizer
We found this circuit on Paul Stennings site, Electronic
Projects Online. Visit his site for more extensive details of
this project. The rest of the text is Paul's:
A
problem I frequently encounter when copying video tapes is the
deterioration in the sound quality. The five band graphic
equaliser described here was designed to connect between two video
recorders, so that the frequency response can be corrected
somewhat. Its use is by no means limited to video recording
however, it is a general purpose design that will prove useful for
many audio applications.
The five controls each have a range of +/- 10dB at centre
frequencies of 100Hz, 300Hz, 1KHz, 3KHz and 10KHz. The 3dB
points on each band are at half and twice the centre frequencies.
Thus, the 3dB points on the 100Hz control are at 50Hz and 200Hz.
With all controls at maximum the unit has a total gain of 15dB.
The unit will accept an input of up to about 1V RMS (3V pk-pk)
before distortion occurs with all controls at maximum.
I do
not possess suitable test equipment to measure noise and
distortion, although none was apparent on the oscilloscope trace.
I would describe the unit as suitable for good quality stereo
equipment, but not true hi-fi.
Although the design is mono, a stereo version could be built using
two PCB's and stereo pots. More details on this are given
later.
The Works
The complete circuit diagram is shown in figure #. This
basic circuit principle has been used in several graphic equaliser
designs, so I am making no great claims about its originality!
The input is buffered by the first section of IC1, which has unity
gain and a consistent output impedance. If any overall gain
or attenuation is required, it may be achieved by altering the
values of R1 to R4.
To make the explanation of the second stage clearer, assume that
all five frequency selective sections have disappeared, as well as
four of the control pots. The wiper of the remaining pot is
connected to ground via a 1K0 resistor.
If the pot is in the upper position (fully clockwise), the 1K0
resistor appears between the inverting input of the op-amp and
ground, giving the stage a gain of ten. If the pot track
resistance is 10K (five 50K pots in parallel), the signal at the
non-inverting input is halved, giving a total gain of five.
With the pot in the lower position (anti-clockwise), the input to
the non-inverting input is reduced to a tenth, and the gain of the
op-amp circuit is two, giving a total gain of a fifth.
With the pot in the centre the gain of the whole stage is unity,
since the attenuation of the input signal is cancelled by the gain
of the op-amp. If our imaginary 1K0 resistor is replaced
with a tuned circuit, the effects described above will only occur
around its centre frequency. In this circuit we have five
tuned circuits giving the five bands.
Traditionally the tuned circuits would consist of a capacitor and
inductor in series. Due to the lack of availability of
suitable inductors, modern designs use a gyrator circuit to
simulate an inductor. This uses an op-amp to reverse the
phase relationship of a capacitor, to make it appear like an
inductor.
Taking the first stage, C4 is the real capacitor and the op-amp
and remaining components form the gyrator. The R7 controls
the reactance of our "inductor", and therefore the Q of
the tuned circuit. In this case we do not want a
particularly sharp response so the Q is fairly low. R7, R8
and C3 all affect the "inductance", and I have yet to
find the correct formula for calculating this!
The final output of the circuit is buffered by a unity gain op-amp
stage. SW1 selects whether the equaliser is in the audio
path.
The circuit requires a supply of +/-12 to 15V, at less than 10mA.
This does not need to be regulated but must be smooth and have
minimal ripple. The output of a 9-0-9 transformer is full
wave rectified and smoothed giving approximately +/-13V across the
220uF capacitors. About a volt is dropped by the 100R
decoupling resistors, leaving around 12V to power the circuit.
Construction
All the components, except the transformer and pots, are
mounted on a single sided PCB, 113mm * 51mm. The component
overlay is shown in figure #.
There are two wire links that should be fitted first, along with
the resistors and diodes. The remaining components may then
be fitted. Sockets may be used for the IC's, but this is not
really necessary providing they are fitted last and soldered
carefully.
The
non-polarised capacitors should be reasonable quality types,
dipped polyester or mylar types are suitable. Try to avoid
the cheap ceramic disk types, for this project. The PCB
holes for these components are on a 0.4" pitch, which is
suitable for the suggested types.
Two PCBs are required for a stereo unit. Do not fit D1-D4,
C12 and C13, on one PCB.
The prototype had rotary pots, and was constructed in a plastic
case that matched my other projects. Many constructors may
prefer a more orthodox layout, with slider controls and an
instrument or desk case.
Whatever case is used, the PCB's should be mounted as close as
possible to the control pots. Use short lengths of wire to
connect the pot tags directly to the PCB pads. On the PCB,
the left pad for each pot is the minimum or anti-clockwise end of
the track, the centre pad is the wiper, and the right pad is the
maximum or clockwise end.
Connect the input socket to the SK1 pads, and the output socket to
SK2. In both cases the centre core of the screened cable
goes to the left pin. The IN/OUT switch connects to the SW1
pads, with the wiper to the centre pad.
The transformer may now be connected to the X1 pads on the PCB,
with the centre tap to the middle pad. For a stereo unit,
connect the transformer to the PCB with the diodes fitted, and
link the SK3 pads on the two boards together. The mains
input flex may be joined to the transformer primary wires with a
choc-block connector or similar.
Testing and Operation
There is nothing to set up on this unit, it will either work
or fail depending on how well it was put together! These few
checks with a test meter will confirm that everything is
reasonably OK, before connecting the unit to your audio equipment.
First set the test meter to the 20V range, and check the supplies
on one of the IC's. There should be about +12V on pin 4 and
-12V on pin 13. Now connect the meter to the output (pin 1
of IC1), the voltage should be 0V or thereabouts. Turn each
of the five pots to both ends, and check the output remains at
almost 0V. If the output is not at 0V (+/- 0.1V) something
is wrong, which should be investigated. Now connect the unit
to your audio equipment, cross your fingers, and try it.
If the output of this unit is connected to a video recorder or
some other piece of equipment with an automatic level control, you
may find that the sound level drops if the 100Hz or 300Hz controls
are turned up too far. Most automatic level circuits respond
more to the bass frequencies.
Bearing this in mind, faint and grotty recordings can sometimes be
avoided by turning the 100Hz and 300Hz bands down a bit to reduce
the effect of the level control. Turn the 1KHz and 3KHz up a
bit to improve the clarity, and turn the 10KHz down to get rid of
any hiss. The result may sound a bit thin, but it is better
than a quiet muffled sound with tape hiss.
There's not much else I can say about using this unit. Most
people know what a graphic equaliser does, and a little trial and
error will show the effect of each frequency band.
Parts
Resistors (0.25W
5% or better)
R1,2
47K
R3,4,5,6
10K
R7,9,11,13,15
1K2
R8,10,12,14,16
18K
R17,18
100R
VR1,2,3,4,5
50K Pot
Capacitors
C1
470n
C2,3
330n
C4,5
100n
C6,7
33n
C8,9
10n
C10,11
3n3
C12,13
220u 16V
C14,15
100u 16V
Semiconductors
IC1,2
LF347
D1,2,3,4
1N4001
Miscellaneous
9-0-9V 100mA Transformer, PCB, Case, Knobs, SPDT Switch, Two Phono
Sockets, Screened Cable, Wire, Mains Flex.
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