All tracks under ICs are broken as shown here.
Start by placing the IC sockets - don't solder them in yet, just dot two corner pins to hold them in place. Then place the straight wire links. These can be made with tinned copper wire of about 24SWG. Pull it until it stretches a bit before using it - that way you will get nice straight bits of wire.
Next the resistors and capacitors can be added. Bend the legs to hold them in place.
By now the board should be almost complete. Compare it with the diagram to make sure the positions are correct, and that nothing has been left out.
It has! Now place the off-board connector pins marked x, and the
single bent wire link.
This needs to be an insulated wire as it lies across a link.
Make the breaks in the track under the IC's using a small drill bit. Now you can solder all the components in place, and trim the wire ends off. Check for any solder bridges or dry joints.
Connect the off-board components, using short lengths of twisted wire. Plug a set of headphones into the jack. Put the LM386 in and connect the battery. You should hear a slight hiss in the phones, and maybe some hum if you touch pin 3 with a piece of wire. The current drain will increase. Disconnect the battery and place the other two IC's. Reconnect the battery and test the detector with some ultrasound.
Testing the detector
Haven't got a tame bat? Rubbing your hands together, snapping your fingers, jangling keys or rubbing a nylon jacket all make sounds your detector should pick up. Now that it's working, fit it into its case, and look forward to lots of late nights as you use your detector in the field!
Pin configuration of IC's used in the frequency division bat detector
Top view of chip in all cases
4069: never leave CMOS gate inputs unconnected as static charge can blow up the IC. Pin 13 is connected to +Vdd
4024: RESET (active high) needs to be connected to 0V to allow counter operation
LM386: The supply needs to be decoupled with a capacitor (C6) wired closely to the supply pins.