Pendulum - 6. Appendices Discover the Secrets of
Dowsing with Your Pendulum

Intuition Technology
- Dowsing is IT !

Make your Home Safe and
Healthy for your Family !

Chapter 6 - "Appendices"


Take a wire coat hanger and cut it in the middle of the bottom; now cut each piece at the hook end. Gently bend the wires so that they have right angle bends at the elbows. Try to avoid any rough edges - since you want the pointers to turn without catching.

If you want to have the `L' rods turn easily, get two thin ` drinking straws ', cut a length from each, and slip one over each handle of your `L' rods. Take a pair of pliers, and form a small circle at the end of the wires (both handle and pointer) so that they will not poke out any person's eye.

If you do not use ` straws ' but hold the handles directly, make sure that you do not grip too hard, else the pointers will not turn. Hold the handles gently, allowing them to turn.

Place your elbows close to your body at the bottom of your rib cage; keep your forearms straight out and in front, forming a right angle to your body. Hold the `L' rods by the handles, with the pointer at the top, and twist your wrists until the pointers are both pointing away from you and to your front.

If you hold the handles so that the pointers are pointing down, they will NOT respond; you need to have the pointers about parallel to the ground, but just enough twist so that they point ahead of you, not to either side. This is the ` start position '.

As you walk forward, look straight ahead, being aware of the direction of the pointers - but DO NOT look directly at them. Imagine that you have a full cup of water in each hand, which you had balanced so that they do not spill, and you are relying on your sense of balance to keep them from spilling as you walk forward.

When you cross a water pipe or electric cable, you will find that the pointers have moved. Your sense of balance changed due to the influence of the pipe or cable, and your wrists twisted so that the pointers are now pointing in a different direction.

Both pointers may now point inwards, or point outwards, or form a cross. Or both pointers may point to the left, or both to the right.

For most people the pointers both point inwards when an influence is felt. You can program them to fix the signals given.

If you keep on walking forward, the pointers may start to point towards you (in a reversal of the start position) signifying that the main strength of the influence is now behind you; and eventually the rods will revert to the start position, meaning that the influence is no longer being felt by you.

But we all have a tendency to make corrections; and usually that means that when the rods start to point in a new position we presume we have twisted our hands - so we make the rods point forwards again, resuming the start position.

Now if this is so, how can we tell whether we are directly over the centre of the pipe or cable, or just within its influence ? What is the range over which the influence acts ?

One way is to mark the spot when the influence is first felt, re-adjust your rods to the start position, and continue walking forward. At some position the pointers will give a signal opposite to the previous signal, meaning that you are now out of the influence area - so place another marker here.

Now turn around to face the way that you came, resume the start position, and walk towards your original start point, repeating the above procedure.

This gives you 4 markers - 2 in the central area indicating where the influence is greatest, and 2 at the edges to show where the influence ceased.

The mid point between the 2 central markers is probably directly over the pipe or cable, and the depth if likely to be half the distance between the outer markers - or the average distance between the centre point and the outer markers.

You can use a single `L' rod for directions, sensing energies, and answering questions.


The forked sticks cut from trees to form a `Y' are recounted in many ancient texts as ` THE water witching ' tool. Modern day `Y' rods are made from metals and plastics, as well as wood. There is no real difference between `Y' rod and a `V' rod, which includes all similar Dowsing tools.

Your `Y' rod relies on the same wrist movements as the `L' rods, but while accepting fewer signals it amplifies them so that they are unmistakable. In fact, many people have found the resulting force to be so great that they cannot fight it ! And if this happens to you, the best advice is to just loosen your grip instead of hurting yourself.

A lot of people have trouble using a `Y' rod; this is because the correct way to hold it is not obvious. A picture can show you the correct positioning of your arms and hands, but the importance of where to exert pressure with your hands is critical !

It is reported that Europeans tend to hold the `Y' rod with their knuckles uppermost, while North Americans keep their palms on top. Quite honestly, it does not matter. What is important is that the posture that you use is comfortable, and that you apply pressure in the correct way at the right points.

So how do you hold your `Y' rod? Since the European way is the oldest hold, start with that grip. Put your elbows into your sides and keeping the back of your hands uppermost hold your `Y' rod pointing to your front. Now place your thumbs in between the two free branches of the rod, and spread the rod apart by moving your hands and elbows outwards, but bringing your thumbs towards your body.

Now the really important part - the pressure should be applied by the first fingers of your hand pulling the rod towards you, with the palms of your hands pushing the ends of the rod away from you, to force a nice curve in the rods. You can use your other fingers to grip the rods to add stability, but the main pressure is from the first fingers - the index fingers, the fingers next to your thumb. This is your ` start ' position.

With both grips your hands force the branches into a curve, with the joint ends (the `Y') kept pointing away from you in front, and the handle ends in line horizontally - if someone held a long ruler for you, the handle extensions would be parallel to the ruler.

The sensitivity of the `Y' rod is at its maximum when the free ends are in line - each free end having been rotated through a right angle from when they touched. To reduce sensitivity, you rotate them using a smaller angle. But if the angle is too small, they will not react.

An important test to see if you are holding your `Y' rods correctly is to give a very slight twist to your wrists. If your grip is correct, your rods should immediately respond. If not, change your grip until this does happen.

If you just hold it with your fingers without applying the pressure then you may have trouble getting your rod to work. AFTER you have got your rod to work, you can have fun trying different holds, to see which one is best for you. Do not be afraid to experiment - it can be fun, and you will learn. And remember, we often learn more from making mistakes than we do from doing things right the first time !

The movements that your rod will make are either up or down; this is similar to the way that your `L' rods move inwards or outwards. But because you have a strong grip on your `Y' rod, the tendency to correct is lessened. This means that as you enter and leave an influence zone, your `Y' rod will recover to the start position.

Additionally, since you are applying pressure, you are providing a force against which your `Y' rods can react. And this enables you to judge the strength of the reaction by your `Y' rod, and so estimate the power being exerted by the influence field - and, of course, by the object of your search. Note that all these reactions are relative, so as you get more experienced so your judgements will improve in reliability.


Abstracted from ` `The `American `Dowser', Volume 23, No.1 - February 1983

by `Barbara `Prisbe, a past Director of `CSQ, and Editor of ` `The `American `Dowser '.

As Measured on the Mind Mirror, by `Edith M. `Jurka, `M.D. Diplomate of the American Board of Psychiatry and Neurology

The Mind Mirror is an instrument designed in London by Dr. C. `Maxwell `Cade `F.I.E.E., `F.I.Physics, `F.I.Bio., `F.R.So.Health, `F.R.So.Medicine, awarded the `Oliver `Lodge Research Grant of the College of Psychic Studies, and `Geoffrey `Blundell, electronics expert and designer.

The Mind Mirror consists of two electroencephalographs which record both sides of the brain instantaneously. The brain frequency analysis consists of 14 different frequency ranges, from .075 Hz to 38 Hz.

Five original patterns were established. When checking Dowsers it was found that a sixth and different pattern emerged... see diagrams below; which show the left and right brain wave patterns for various states in normal people, and those observed in meditative people and in experienced Dowsers.

Concerning the very high delta amplitude in all the Dowsers, Dr. `Cade said it correlates with higher levels of consciousness and a reaching out to the unknown. Certainly this is the essence of what a Dowser does - reach out for information not available to the 5 ordinary senses. A confirmation of this interpretation is that the delta frequencies are absent in the 5th State pattern of yogis, whose practice does not include a search.

The increased beta amplitude (which yogis do not have) could come from both sides of the Dowser's brain concentrating hard on the object of the search. Perhaps the varying amplitudes of theta in the different Dowsers reflect in some way a degree of " spirituality " - for want of a better word. It may be that this tends to increase in such a person as he or she lives longer.


Extracted from an article by` Marcel `Triau, a member of the `ASD.

Of all the systems of insect control in use today, the majority are artificial. However, nature is very precariously balanced and the least tampering can bring about disastrous results - as evidenced by indiscriminate use of insecticides and upsetting the prey predator ratio.

For the past 18 years I have used and researched a safe and simple system of pest control which takes advantage of some little known and little understood laws of nature. Because we cannot scientifically define and analyze these laws many people disbelieve them. However, nature is full of mystery and even the working of our own bodies is not fully understood.

This particular system is called the ` French Coil ' because it originated in France in the 1930's and consists of a coil of wire. The equipment needed is a long piece of copper wire (# 10 for small trees, # 8 for larger trees), sticks for support, rubber for insulation, and of course, an infested tree.

One end of the wire is buried in the earth at the base of the tree to provide a ground and prevent short circuits. The wire is then coiled around the tree trunk several items with the free end left pointing into the air - to act as an antenna. The coil can be held in position by wooden stakes with insulation to prevent grounding the wire to the stakes.

Perhaps the minute amounts of electricity in the air flows into the wire and the tree and creates a magnetic field around the tree, giving the tree more health and strength and weakening the pests resulting in their destruction. You should install the French Coil before the sap starts to run.

A Tree has a " front door " - a certain place on the trunk, about 6 to 18 inches long, where this energy enters the tree. It usually faces northwest but varies slightly from tree to tree. On the opposite side of the trunk is the " back door " which acts as a safety valve allowing the release of electricity should the tree become overcharged. The " front door " demonstrates its affinity for electricity following the path of an electrical storm; it returns to its original position when the storm is over.

However, the " front door " and " back door " are undetectable to the eye as is the atmospheric electricity - except when it manifests itself as lightning or static electricity. The " front door " and " back door " must be detected by a dowser, who must supervise the entire set up.

Note: To find the front door, use your index finger of one hand as a pointer, and ask your Pendulum (held in your other hand) to indicate the location and the top (or bottom) position.

The wire must be wound around the tree in a right hand spiral starting from the " front door ", three to five inches away from the surface of the bark. The dowser will determine the number of coils needed and the distance between the loops. The free end of the wire must be within the limits of the " front door ". The height of the first coil is unimportant but it must be below the level of the front door.

Now the system is ready to work and there is absolutely no danger to anyone who comes near or touches the tree or wire. I have used the Coil on many types of trees and types of pests.

It has killed caterpillars in apple trees in New England and snails in grapefruit trees in the Bahamas. While I have not been able to methodically test its effectiveness against every common tree and pest, there are no known reasons to doubt its effectiveness on any tree or pest.


Library Resources: Some good books are listed on the back page; you may be able to borrow them through your local library system. Booksellers listed in the `Dowsers * `Questers / `Canada web links page may offer you discounts. The `ASD bookshop (access from `ASD web page, or write the `ASD for catalogue) offers many items not quoted here. You can also use a search engine to find books and more sites - use keywords `Dowsing, `Divining, `Pendulum and `Backster.

‘A `Letter to `Robin ’, by `Walter `Woods, from `ASD Bookshop
A classical introduction, compiled with the help of many Dowsers
`Dowsing for `Beginners, by `Richard `Webster, from `Llewellyn `Publications
Excellent book on all Dowsing tools; including your body. History, government use.
`Dowsing for `Beginners, by `Naomi `Ozaniec, from `Headway / `Hodder & `Stoughton
An excellent easy to read book, data on healing, other Dowsing tools.
`Pendulum `Workbook, by `Markus `Schirner, from `Sterling `Publishing.
Very basic facts about using a Pendulum, but exceptionally good on using charts for health - a beautifully prepared book, with super illustrations.
`Pendulum `Power, by `Neilsen & `Polansky, from `Destiny `Books
General, covers maps, plants, healing
`Pendulum `Power, by `Neilsen & `Polansky, from `Destiny `Books
General, covers maps, plants, healing
The `Divining `Hand, by `Chris `Bird, from `ASD Bookshop
Exciting, documented stories; history around the world, theories on how Dowsing works
The `Secret `Life of `Plants, by `Tompkins & `Bird, from `Avon
Covers Backster effect and much more !
The `Pendulum `Kit, by `Sig `Lonegren, from `Fireside / `Simon & `Schuster
Historical, uses with astrology, map Dowsing, and healing.
`Spiritual `Dowsing, by `Sig `Lonegren, from `Gothic `Image / `Great `Tradition
Levels of Dowsing, ‘Earth Energies’, and some healing.
`Anatomy of the `Spirit, by `Carolyn `Myss, from `Natural `Wellness
`Carolyn is a medical intuitive, working with enlightened medical doctors to identify personal problems behind the illnesses of their patients. An excellent book on the chakra system and how it relates to emotional, personal, and medical problems
`Visualization for `Change, by `Patrick `Fanning, from `New `Harbinger `Pubs
Easily the best book on improving your visualization skills - invaluable even if you do not Dowse !
`Rebirth of `Nature, `Rupert `Sheldrake, `Bantam `Books
The best book about life and nature - not Dowsing, but it enable you to appreciate better how Dowsing resonates with reality.
`Psychic `Healing, by `Diane `Stein, `Crossing `Press
Another well considered book on healing, with excellent teaching on meditation, visualization, opening oneself to Higher Authority, and on using these gifts for good. Some personal biases are expressed.
`Earth `Radiation, `Kathe `Bachler, `ASD Bookshop
The definitive work on earth energies and geopathic zones, based on thousands of cases in Austria and Germany.

Introduction -|- Basic Dowsing -|- Popular Uses -|- Improving Health -|- Make your Home Safe -|- ** Message Chart -|||-

** This section is NOT AVAILABLE in the abridged version posted on the Internet.